Monday, November 30, 2009
Problems Aplenty
Monday, November 23, 2009
Drawing To A Close In Ashgabat
Unfortunately my trip of a lifetime had to end somewhere, and that somewhere was Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. I ended up with a few extra days there, as I was originally intending to also visit Afghanistan, but my reasons for not doing so are listed below. It was quite a ride, and thank you reading everything I've written and for enjoying all the photos I've posted. I only have one photo from Ashgabat, because all my film had been used up by then, but it is shown above. I took the photo of a screenshot of Turkmenbashi, Turkmenistan's deceased leader. I'll leave you with a piece I've written about him below. Enjoy, and thank you for reading about my Adventures in Central Asia!
Turkmenbashi
Turkmenbashi was the leader of Turkmenistan up until a few years ago, and then his dentist took over. If that sounds strange to someone in America, imagine how the Turkmen people felt under his “rule”, if you could even call it that. Turkmenbashi’s career as the leader of Turkmenistan was defined by his erratic behavior and totalitarian approach to leadership. As he lived in splendor and enjoyed the high life, his people suffered greatly. He is regarded by the global community as one of the most corrupt and unreasonable leaders in history. He renamed the days of the week to his liking, changed each month’s name to the name of someone in his family, and all the while watched as his people starved and struggled, only to claim that the situation was their fault. Upon his death in 2006, his dentist stepped in to rule the country. So far, his dentist has proved to be almost a crazy as he was. His legacy exists only in the faces of emaciated children, poor families, and his ridiculous projects. What is one of the more famous of these “projects” he commissioned as president? He ordered the construction of a resort, complete with a pool, air conditioning, a theater, and luxury suites. The intended clients? Horses. To sum things up, what would Turkmenbashi say if you told him he was involved in cruelty and corruption? “That’s for the birds, or rather, it’s for the horses.”
Afghanistan: Extreme Danger Zone
It is recommended by the US State Department that all American travel to or through Afghanistan cease entirely. The situation there is being called “critical” for a multitude of reasons. Terrorist attacks; kidnappings, bombings, and drug-related violence are only some of the issues that contribute to the unbalanced state of things in Afghanistan. It doesn’t help that foreigners are specifically being targeted by the terrorists, putting any non-Afghan in an immense amount of danger. In fact, things are so bad that even the US embassy in Afghanistan cannot and will not help you if something happens to you in the wrong area of Afghanistan. For these reasons, I have decided to cut Afghanistan from my itinerary, avoiding this dangerous situation entirely and hopefully emerging from my trip safe, happy, and best of all, alive.
Photos: Samarkand
Samarkand: A City Of Historical Treasures
Samarkand was a city of many surprises. My main attractions to the city were the historical richness and well preserved ancient sites. I visited a paper mill and even an observatory, or rather, the ruins of one, and also saw Samarkand Square. See below for my description, and see my next post for photos.
Samarkand: The Gem Of The East
Photos: Tashkent
Trekking In Tashkent
Uzbekistan: Terrorism Run Amok
According to the US State Department, Uzbekistan is currently a hot spot for radical activity and potential terrorist attacks. It is strongly recommended that travelers avoid visiting Uzbekistan for the time being. Numerous groups responsible for localized bombings in the past several years have made threats and are currently active inside Uzbekistan. If you must travel through the country, it is advised that you register with the US Embassy and stay alert. For my trip, I’ve decided to try and limit my stay in Uzbekistan as much as possible to keep safe. I plan to visit both Tashkent and Samarkand, but will make sure to stay up to date with current information and be extremely cautious as I travel through the country.
Being Uzbek Ain’t No Picnic
The word Uzbek means “independent”, a strange definition for a country of people plagued by civil unrest, dissatisfaction with the government, and corruption. But amidst the chaos and confusion, the Uzbek people have created a unique and identifiable culture that can only be described as independent from the mess around them. The predominant language in Uzbekistan is a Turkic language bearing similarity to the language of the Uyghurs, oddly enough. In terms of religion, it is extremely apparent that Islam reigns supreme in Uzbekistan. Many other religions exist in small pockets, but Islam is the definitely the most commonly practiced. It is noted that Uzbekistan has a very high literacy rate, but only about 76% of the Uzbek people are enrolled in school, so there is still room for progress. Folk and pop music are both very popular amongst Uzbeks, even though folk music has been banned from the Uzbek radio since the 1950’s. It has survived in small communities and gatherings, where it performed and danced to. As is apparent, Uzbek culture remains rich, even if the state of their country is very poor.
Taking In Tashkent
The Russian influence in Tashkent is extremely noticeable. The architecture is all very modern, reminiscent of the buildings you might see in a place like Moscow. But even if the Soviet influence is obvious, the city manages to maintain an atmosphere all its own. I would recommend purchasing an Uzbek guidebook if you want to purchase anything from the street vendors. It makes things much easier. It was one of my favorite places to visit on my trip, because the people were so hospitable and the city was so interesting.
Lodging: I quite enjoyed staying in the guesthouses of Almaty & Bishkek, but decided to stay in a slightly different but equally cheap place in Tashkent. Gulnara’s Bed & Breakfast was a great place next to a small pond in the outer part of downtown Tashkent. The rate was 12 US dollars per night, but it was well worth it for the service I received. The place was clean, the bed was comfortable, and the breakfast was delightful. It was placed just a few blocks from the Metro Station too, so that made traveling around town very convenient. If you are looking for a simple but comfortable set up for a low price, I highly recommend this little place.
Food: Tashkent without a doubt was home to the best food I had on my entire journey. The traditional lunch dish is a Samsa, which is similar to a South American empanada. I had an assortment of different types of Samsas for my lunch, for only 3 US Dollars. I tried one each of the beef, mutton, and onion varieties. They are finger food from an oven and are like little pockets of instant gratification. After spending my afternoon enjoying the Tashkent people and the sights around town, I headed out for dinner. I had been told by a friend in my hometown that during his travels across Asia he had tried a food called Plov, which is rice with wild spices, carrots, some type of meat, and cumin. At first I wasn’t so keen on trying it, as I’m not a huge fan of cumin, but I decided that for experience’s sake, I wanted to be able to say I’d tried the national dish of Uzbekistan. It was good, but as I expected I would have preferred it without cumin. Even if you have a very limited tolerance for new foods, I recommend that any traveler try whatever foods they can in a new country. The experience will not be forgotten, and it makes you feel like you have been a part of that much more of the culture in the country you are visiting.
Sightseeing: Instead of seeing a natural beauty like the mountains of the XUAR or the canyons of Kazakhstan, I decided to visit Tashkent’s very own Aqua Park. The Park was great, complete with a wave pool, water slides, and even a high dive. Admission was about 6 US Dollars, but was a very reasonable price for the amount of fun I had. I left my shoes in the locker room, but would recommend to anyone visiting to keep a pair of flip flops with them, because the stones get very hot in the summer. My feet were scorched. If you are hungry, the park has a restaurant and bar where you can grab a cool drink or a nice snack.
Souvenir: I was thrilled to find a small business called the Human House in the North part of town, where craftsman from remote and poor villages can sell their work. I had heard that Tashkent was famous for its ceramics, and entered the shop with the intention of finding a small handmade pot to put my souvenirs from the entire trip in. But I found something even better. For only 3 US Dollars, I found a beautiful little teapot, with a hand painted scene of an Uzbek garden painted on its side. It also felt great to know that my money was helping struggling people in this country which had been so kind to me. That teapot would remain symbolic of my whole journey, and remind me of the wonderful people I met along the way.
Photos: Bishkek
Snapshots of a city that changed how I think of hospitality. I mean really, the people of Bishkek were sensational. Above are some of the photos I gathered in Bishkek. Seen are a group of children I met outside of Bishkek, a statue of a soldier dedicated to the wars of ancient Kyrgyz history, and the Syr Darya River.
On To Bishkek
Kyrgyzstan: The Early Years
In its ancient history, the Kyrgyz state existed peacefully and quietly. This calm existence helped them thrive for quite a while, but their neutrality would not last long. Around 840 AD, the Kyrgyz made a huge move by attacking the Uyghur Empire, a dominant empire rooted in Central Asia. They succeeded in defeating the Uyghurs, and conquered the entire region that was left behind. This area would remain under their control for the next 200 years. Then came the Mongols in 1200, who pushed the Kyrgyz towards the Altay and Sayan mountains, drastically shrinking their domain. Eventually, the Kyrgyz migrated south to avoid conflict, but were then conquered by Genghis Khan’s son just a few years after their move. The Kyrgyz were originally thought by the groups they encountered to be of Slavic descent, because of their peculiarly colored eyes and hair. The process of war and all that it entailed scattered many Kyrgyz throughout Central Asia, which explains why depending on where you travel, the native Kyrgyz may all speak slightly different languages. Kyrgyzstan endured a lot to reach its current state, and its history of conflict and compromise surely explains that.
It’s Great To Be A Kyrgyz
By definition, the Kyrgyz are a blend of people. Their name means “ a collection of forty tribes,” referring to the many nomadic groups that combine to represent the people of Kyrgyzstan. The word Kyrgyz can also mean imperishable, inextinguishable, or undying, which is why the name has risen to such popular appreciation. Even though times are tough in their country, they remain positive, and their culture flourishes. The most popular forms of Kyrgyz housing are yurts, and are often constructed out of leftover and scrap material. Many families actually live with people who are not related to them, as many different ethnicities trickle in Kyrgyzstan, and due to the impoverished state of the country, shelter for one group of people is often shelter for another. These diverse ethnical groups speak similar languages, but with small differentiations in pronunciation and tonality. The dominant religion in Kyrgyzstan is Muslim, and a handful of other practicing religious groups are scattered throughout the country. Folk music is popular in Kyrgyzstan, especially instrumental folk music. The komuz is the national instrument of Kyrgyzstan. It is a plucked string instrument. The kyl kiak, however, is also an important symbol of Kyrgyz identity. It is a string instrument, and is associated with horses and the vital role they play in Kyrgyz culture. Kyrgyz clothing is very colorful and is often inspired by nature. Most clothing items are gender specific, but regardless of gender, all clothes are made warm to support people who may need to travel in the mountains for their jobs. Rising above the desperate situation, the Kyrgyz remain optimistic, and while they have many hurdles to overcome, they can surely do it.
Syr Darya River
The Syr Darya River is a river in Central Asia, with portions of itself snaking through Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan. The river rises in two headstreams into the Tian Shan Mountains, in Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, which are called the Naryn and Kara Darya Rivers. Both of these rivers then drain into what is remaining of the Aral Sea. The Syr Darya River remains crucial to all of the countries it passes through, as it serves as irrigation to the many cotton growing regions along its route. The canals that were built to support the river and agriculture were massively expanded upon by the Soviets, and now have contributed to the drying up of the Aral Sea. With millions of people now living along the river, the situation is a tough one to resolve. No matter how bad for the Aral Sea, it is apparent that the river is important to the region, and no major changes will be made to it soon.
Photos: Almaty
Arrival In Almaty
Oil, Oil, Oil!
In recent years, Kazakhstan has risen to international fame for the enormous amount of untapped resources it houses. Diamonds, uranium, manganese, and many others are all plentiful under the ground in Kazakhstan. But a different resource is the one making many countries want desperately to be best friends with Kazakhstan. It is estimated that Kazakhstan has around 30 billion barrels of untapped crude oil, which makes Kazakhstan a huge target for countries like the United States who are interested in purchasing large amounts of oil. So why is Kazakhstan still one of the poorest countries in all of Asia? Firstly, there are only three oil refineries in all of Kazakhstan, which greatly limits their ability to actually refine the oil. They send lots of oil to Russia, where it is then refined and either exported or sent back to Kazakhstan. Also, the main oil fields are all in somewhat difficult to access locations, in the far corners of the country. The one oil field that is in the central part of the country remains untapped. So for now the people of Kazakhstan remain poor, waiting for the day that their oil will make them rich.
Charyn Canyon
The Charyn Canyon is an 80 km canyon in Kazakhstan set on the Charyn River, about 200 km east of Almaty, on the Chinese border. It is the second largest canyon in the world, and is often called “the mini Grand Canyon.” The canyon is also called the Valley of Castles, because many of the rock formations there look like the turrets of a fairy tale style castle. Many fossils have been found in the canyon, some dating back to 300 million years ago.
Back To Basics in Almaty
Almaty is city of many surprises. Upon arrival here, I found that what may look like a quiet town is really a bustling center for all things Central Asia. My first orders of business upon arrival to Almaty: find a place to stay, get some grub, and check out the sights!
Housing: For lodging, I stayed at a lovely little guest house in downtown Almaty called So Young’s Happiness Guest House. It was run by a kind but cantankerous woman with a funny name. I chose the guest house because of its central location in the city, and its proximity to many great sights around the town. The location was recommended to me by a travel agent in America because of its safe location. There was great service and the works were some of the nicest people I’ve ever met. Many services are offered, like laundry, games, movies, and homemade food. And at only 12 US dollars per night, who wouldn’t want to stay here? It was fantastic, and I recommend So Young’s to anyone traveling in the area.
Food: When I arrived in Almaty, it was about 11:00 in the morning, and I had already eaten a quick breakfast that morning on the bus ride from Urumqi. By 11:00, I was about ready for lunch. The little place I stopped by was called Gakku, and specialized in serving traditional Kazakh food. I decided to try “beshparmak”, which is a stew made from herbs containing pieces of cooked lamb. It was delicious, and again, enjoying the cheap prices of Central Asia, I paid only 5 US dollars for it. Later that day, after touring the city, I was about ready for dinner. I found Soho, a restaurant that again served Kazakh food but also had a free live band play every night! They even played several covers of English music, which was a real treat. My dinner was a dish called “Shashlik”, recommended to me by the locals, and as I later found out, popular throughout this part of Asia. Shashlik is a kebab made from chicken or lamb, and it is grilled over a charcoal grill. It was even better than my lunch that day, and again, only cost me about 4 US dollars. Central Asian cuisine is definitely for me!
Sightseeing: I was torn between seeing many things in Almaty, but eventually decided to hop on the bus for a three hour car ride out to second largest canyon in the world, Caryn Canyon. All I can say is that it was beautiful, and certainly one of the most spectacular places I’ve ever visited. I was especially surprised by the beautiful rust color of the rock there. See my description above of the history of the canyon.
Souvenir: On the morning I was scheduled to leave for Bishkek, I resolved to find the perfect souvenir to bring home from Almaty. As I was browsing the street stalls in the downtown market, I realized that many of the felt creations in the market were unique and would be a perfect gift for someone like my sister. So, with that in mind, I purchased a small felt doll for her. It cost me about 3 US Dollars, and I asked the lady working the stall where I found it what it was made from. As it turns out, the many Kazakh felt dolls are made from boiled lamb’s wool, and then dyed with natural dye created from plants in the area. Content that my sister would love the doll; I gathered my belongings and headed onwards to Bishkek.
Photos: Urumqi
Hello Urumqi
The XUAR: Conquests & Turmoil
China has always been famous for its lengthy history of the rise and fall of dynasties, and the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region has stayed true to the legacy of conflict. Since its beginnings in 206 BC, it has struggled under fierce rulers and fought for eventual independence. The region’s first iron fisted rulers were the Han Dynasty, who held the XUAR as a Chinese protectorate until the Han Dynasty was challenged by northern neighbors. The Han Dynasty overcame its northern enemies and continued to hold the XUAR as a commodity. Then, after the fall of the Han Dynasty, warring ethnic groups continually tried to take control the region, with its ownership under question for much of the next few hundred years. Just when there appeared to be room for the XUAR to escape control, the Tang Dynasty took over. They maintained control for the next hundred years, until an empire unlike anything the XUAR had seen arrived, The Uyghur Empire. They beat out the Tang Dynasty for control of the region, and would reign supreme in the area for the next 100 years, until a small tribe arrived that threatened to destroy everything. The Kyrgyz tribe arrived in 840 with great ambition and a fiery spirit. In fact, they were so driven that they, in war, defeated the Uyghur Empire, scattering the Uyghur people all throughout Central Asia.
Gradually, the Uyghur people managed to group back together and stay that way until the 1200’s. Then, they sensibly offered allegiance to Genghis Khan and the Mongol Army, riding the coattails of his success for a long time. This cycle of conquests and turmoil continued through the 1800’s, until 1912, when the XUAR became part of the Republic of China, where they remain today. The reason this lengthy history is so significant is because of the lingering cultural tensions still rotted in the region today. A melting pot of peoples, the area has suffered greatly due to violence and uprisings in the past few years, all of which are reminiscent of the conflict of the XUAR’s early years.
Trouble in the XUAR
The XUAR is known for housing a melting pot of cultures and people, but what does a pot do when it gets too hot? It boils over, and that is exactly what happened during the 2008 Uyghur unrest. The region has had a long history of conflict, dating all the way back to its origins. The Uyghurs, one of the foundation ethnic groups, in the XUAR, has been trying since the 1700’s to obtain self determination, which is basically the ability for a group of people to determine their own way of life. The Chinese government has made many attempts to curb the rise of independence groups like the Uyghurs. Following the death of a famous businessman who was in police custody in 2008, several pro-independence groups, some of which were predominantly Uyghur, were sparked to protest the government in Xinjiang. Simultaneously, a Uyghur woman detonated a bomb in a packed bus, escaping as the only one alive. The authorities started blaming random ethnic groups for starting the protests and also for bombing the bus, which lead to even greater chaos. This sparked a chain of events that included bombings, police brutality, and shooting. The situation continued to escalate with more and more deaths until things finally calmed down in late August.
After several days on enjoying Urumqi and all that the city has to offer, it was time for me to go. I hopped on a bus and headed for Almaty. But before I got there I had to cross the Tian Shan Mountains. They tower over the rest of Central Asia, and needless to say, were quite impressive. Below is my research piece on this famous Mountain Range.
The Tian Shan Mountains
The name Tian Shan in Chinese means celestial mountains, suggesting perhaps that the Tian Shan Mountains reach the heavens, which wouldn’t be too much of an exaggeration. With its highest point towering above the surrounding peaks at 24,406 feet, the Tian Shan Mountains are some of the highest mountains in all of Asia. Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and the XUAR are all in proximity to these mountains, located to the northwest of the Taklimakan Desert. As I mentioned earlier, the highest peak is Victory Peak, named because of the incredible feat it would be to climb it. The largest passage through the mountains is via Torugart Pass, connecting Kyrgyzstan to the XUAR. Serving as a shield from the outside world, the Tian Shan Mountain range arches around Central Asia, protecting and enclosing the countries tucked inside.
For pictures of Urumqi, the Urumqi riots that were a large part of the unrest there, and to see the Tian Shan Mountains, see my next post.
The Adventure Is Over...
Additional Note: Here is the route I took based on the order of the cities I visited:
1. Urumqi (The Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region)
2. Almaty (Kazakhstan)
3. Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan)
4. Tashkent (Uzbekistan)
5. Samarkand (Uzbekistan)
6. Ashgabat (Turkmenistan)