Monday, November 23, 2009

On To Bishkek

Kyrgyzstan proved to be one of the more interesting places I visited on my trip, beginning from the moment we passed through border patrol. The guards were very confrontational, and the whole process probably took about an hour and a half before we were let through. Luckily I was armed with my passport and a visa, so I had nothing to worry about. Bishkek as a city was one of the quieter places I stayed, but it had a large presence. The people were friendly and I learned oodles about the history of Kyrgyzstan and its culture from them. Below are some of the things they told me, along with a write up about the Syr Darya River and how it has contributed to the environmental crisis that is the Aral Sea.

Kyrgyzstan: The Early Years

In its ancient history, the Kyrgyz state existed peacefully and quietly. This calm existence helped them thrive for quite a while, but their neutrality would not last long. Around 840 AD, the Kyrgyz made a huge move by attacking the Uyghur Empire, a dominant empire rooted in Central Asia. They succeeded in defeating the Uyghurs, and conquered the entire region that was left behind. This area would remain under their control for the next 200 years. Then came the Mongols in 1200, who pushed the Kyrgyz towards the Altay and Sayan mountains, drastically shrinking their domain. Eventually, the Kyrgyz migrated south to avoid conflict, but were then conquered by Genghis Khan’s son just a few years after their move. The Kyrgyz were originally thought by the groups they encountered to be of Slavic descent, because of their peculiarly colored eyes and hair. The process of war and all that it entailed scattered many Kyrgyz throughout Central Asia, which explains why depending on where you travel, the native Kyrgyz may all speak slightly different languages. Kyrgyzstan endured a lot to reach its current state, and its history of conflict and compromise surely explains that.

It’s Great To Be A Kyrgyz

By definition, the Kyrgyz are a blend of people. Their name means “ a collection of forty tribes,” referring to the many nomadic groups that combine to represent the people of Kyrgyzstan. The word Kyrgyz can also mean imperishable, inextinguishable, or undying, which is why the name has risen to such popular appreciation. Even though times are tough in their country, they remain positive, and their culture flourishes. The most popular forms of Kyrgyz housing are yurts, and are often constructed out of leftover and scrap material. Many families actually live with people who are not related to them, as many different ethnicities trickle in Kyrgyzstan, and due to the impoverished state of the country, shelter for one group of people is often shelter for another. These diverse ethnical groups speak similar languages, but with small differentiations in pronunciation and tonality. The dominant religion in Kyrgyzstan is Muslim, and a handful of other practicing religious groups are scattered throughout the country. Folk music is popular in Kyrgyzstan, especially instrumental folk music. The komuz is the national instrument of Kyrgyzstan. It is a plucked string instrument. The kyl kiak, however, is also an important symbol of Kyrgyz identity. It is a string instrument, and is associated with horses and the vital role they play in Kyrgyz culture. Kyrgyz clothing is very colorful and is often inspired by nature. Most clothing items are gender specific, but regardless of gender, all clothes are made warm to support people who may need to travel in the mountains for their jobs. Rising above the desperate situation, the Kyrgyz remain optimistic, and while they have many hurdles to overcome, they can surely do it.


Syr Darya River

The Syr Darya River is a river in Central Asia, with portions of itself snaking through Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan. The river rises in two headstreams into the Tian Shan Mountains, in Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, which are called the Naryn and Kara Darya Rivers. Both of these rivers then drain into what is remaining of the Aral Sea. The Syr Darya River remains crucial to all of the countries it passes through, as it serves as irrigation to the many cotton growing regions along its route. The canals that were built to support the river and agriculture were massively expanded upon by the Soviets, and now have contributed to the drying up of the Aral Sea. With millions of people now living along the river, the situation is a tough one to resolve. No matter how bad for the Aral Sea, it is apparent that the river is important to the region, and no major changes will be made to it soon.

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