Afghanistan: A Lost Cause?

Hardly. Here are four different viewpoints and plans proposed as to how the US should proceed with the situation in Afghanistan.

Position #1: by Trudy Rubin

Thesis: We should send more US and NATO troops to Afghanistan to supplement a counterinsurgency strategy.

Main Point #1: By sending more troops, we can curtail Taliban expansion, therefore limiting their ability to recruit and take over more areas.

Main Point #2: We need to strengthen Pakistan, and this is most achievable is we focus specifically on strengthening their government against internal terrorist attacks.

Main Point #3: Securing major population centers will allow the Afghan people to begin "self-defending."

Position #2: by Michael A. Cohen and Parag Khanna

Thesis: Our militaries' attention should begin focusing on Pakistan instead of Afghanistan.

MP #1: We should continue attacking with drones, using Pakistani intelligence to improve the accuracy of our strikes.

MP #2: By cooperating with local Afghan leaders, we can hope to have Taliban leaders "flip" and give us valuable information about Al Qaida.

Mp #3: Another helpful project that we should pursue is strengthening support for the Pakistani government and military.

Position #3: by Tariq Ali

Thesis: It would be best for us to encourage regional negotiations rather than try to solve the issue using our military force.

MP #1: All US forces should withdraw immediately from Afghanistan.

MP #2: As we withdraw, a pact between regions should be created to help stabilize Afghanistan if it experiences trouble in the next ten years.

MP #3: Another plan focusing on the reconstruction of Afghanistan's social and economic systems should also be made.

Position #4: by George Will

Thesis: All US and NATO troops should pull out of Afghanistan now.

MP #1: We should offer help to rebuild and support Afghanistan once we have left.

MP #2: Forces in Afghanistan should be reduced to serve a revised US policy on Afghanistan.

MP #3: Whatever we choose to do should all be things we are capable of doing from offshore.

There you are. I think I met the requirements, and I am really trying to keep things simple instead of writing a novel for every point. It's something I need to work on, but I think I did a pretty good job of it here.

The Children Of The Taliban

It is undeniable that the Taliban have Afghanistan and Pakistan in a stalemate. If anyone moves out of turn, the situation could get extremely ugly, extremely fast. And that's not to say that the situation is not already growing out of hand. As seen in the video we watch in class, the Pakistani government has signed a peace deal with the Taliban, allowing them a larger safe haven in a more volatile place. Day by day, soldiers perish, people are executed, and the Taliban gain more momentum. But perhaps even more worrisome than all of that is the effect all of this is having on the children of Pakistan.

1. Why do children join the Taliban?

Many things in Pakistan could cause or provoke a child to join the Taliban. Pakistan is a country that highly values religion, and the Taliban have wielded this to their advantage. Madrasas, or small "religion" based schools, have been created by the Taliban as a means to recruit new members. Some of their primary targets are as young as six years old. Families are attracted to the madrasas by promises of food and shelter, but only if their sons attend school with the Taliban. And religion isn't the only thing they learn about in school. They also are trained in all things military, taught how be a suicide bomber, and schooled in how to safely use weapons. Seems to me like maybe religion and education aren't the top priorities at these so called "schools. They just happen to be convenient cover for a brainwashing operation. The children at these schools are indoctrinated into believing that the only way to prove their devotion to their religion is through violence. Oh, and if you're a girl? You don't get to go school, because your school was just bombed by the Taliban. Have a nice day kids.... have a nice day.

2. How has the war in Afghanistan impacted children?

Pakistani children have been forced to grow up quickly. They have been inducted into a world of violence, blood, and hatred. Education is not a guarantee, and for many children, not even an option. The economy is hot and cold, and the job market isn't exactly bustling. So where do the children turn? To the Taliban, who support their families, offer them direction, and give them cool weapons. It's the sad reality for so many young children, and unless something is done soon, their future isn't looking too bright.

3. Has the military offensive by the Pakistani army/ US military drones been effective?

Not really. First of all, the drone attacks are somewhat less accurate than they need to be. Sure, maybe they manage to take out a Taliban member, who will just become a martyr and be worshipped anyways, but they might also kill innocent civilians or bystanders. Also, the damage and death caused by the drone attacks have only incited the Taliban initiative even more. The destruction just excites them even more, and only adds to their drive.

4. How and why does the Taliban continue to grow?

Because they market themselves so well to children, the Taliban have an almost endless supply of new members. Their intricate process of indoctrination makes use of things such as the madrasas to begin plugging the Taliban future to children as early as possible. In a country facing so many struggles, the allure of the Taliban is a sense of purpose. You have a direction to go in, something to put your heart and soul into. This is why the Taliban continues to grow.

The Afghan War For Dummies

With the situation in Afghanistan escalating, President Obama has devised a plan for how to move forward. Here is the gist of his plan:

Declaring that our nation's "security is at stake," Obama has announced that 30,000 more troops will be deployed to Afghanistan, and he's wasting no time. Most of these troops will be from combat divisions. The Marines are set to be in place by Christmas. With the announcement that all of this is going to cost $30 billion for the first year alone, Obama has promised that the US will be pulling out of Afghanistan within 18 months. The new initiative will be focused on reducing the Taliban's stronghold and strengthening the Afghan government. He also stated that our common enemies are "Islamic terrorists." He is not calling this an "exit strategy", but instead a "transition strategy." With that in mind, I'll now change topics and discuss my opinion of Obama's proposed plan.

First off: my disclaimer. I cannot claim that my opinions will be backed up by numerous facts, figures, or sources. I am going to just try my best to think logically about this and formulate a response. As I said earlier, war is extremely confusing to me, and I'm trying to understand it as best as I can.

I think that no matter what Obama did: whether he pushed for immediate pull out or threw a ton of money at the war, people would be unhappy. People would say he was wrong, or that they had better ideas. But one of the most persistent complaints about this war is that many feel it will be "a war with no end." Perhaps it will, but at least now a path forward has been illuminated. In terms of sending more troops, I don't necessarily like the idea, but I think it is necessary. But not because I feel we need "to win." Because I think our troops who are already in Afghanistan need help, and not only that, but they deserve it. If they are more safe, then I can easily see the justification for sending more troops. At the same time, I think personally that we should pull out of Afghanistan. I think that we have dug ourselves far into a hole that is going to be difficult to climb out of now, and so I suppose one could use that as an argument for why we can't leave. If we leave, two things could happen. The people of Afghanistan and Pakistan (who I believe are just as much a part of this war) could be left to resolve things themselves, and to face the Taliban without us. This could go "smoothly", meaning that in many, many years, some sort of stability would be restored to the region naturally. Or: All hell could break loose. I have no idea which one would happen, and to be honest, the whole entire situation makes me sick to even think about. I entirely respect Obama's decision and see that he is not pursuing this issue as an issue of nation-building, but as a plan built around insurgency. I hope all goes well with his decision, and I guess only time will tell.

Problems Aplenty

You'd think that the war alone would be the all encompassing problem for the American troops in Afghanistan. But in fact, there are many other things that plague troops fighting the Taliban in the harsh desert lands of Afghanistan. Four problems that seem especially significant to me are as follows:

1. There is a lack of American ground troops in Afghanistan.

Due to the unstable situation in Afghanistan, and the possibility of a failed state in its neighboring nation, Pakistan, The US is "forced" to continuing fighting a war in the region. Unfortunately, the amount of troops needed to fight that war far exceeds the number of troops actually ready and willing to transfer overseas. In short, we don't have enough troops to fight to our fullest capacity. And this is dangerous for several reasons. First, the troops already there are in more danger and have less backup. Also, if we don't have enough troops to accomplish what needs to be accomplished, the war will drag on, costing more money and risking more lives.

2. The potential for Pakistan to become a "failed state."

The Pakistani government is currently in a very weak state. As a country, violence is prominent and many are unhappy. In fact, things are so bad there that many are predicting that Pakistan will soon become a "failed state," meaning that the Pakistani government is failing to do its job correctly. If Pakistan were to become a failed state, the door would be open for a group like the Taliban to enter and take over things. That kind of control could be extremely dangerous, as Pakistan is the proud owner of many nuclear weapons. Basically, one of the world's most predominant terrorist groups could have a supply of nuclear weapons. Also, that would mean the already thinly spread American troops would have even more ground to cover, and an even greater deficit of soldiers.

3. Any Taliban leaders that are killed by US soldiers become martyrs.

Even if US soldiers manage to take out key Taliban figures, their death will not divide or disperse the Taliban as the US had previously hoped. The fallen Taliban will instead be looked at as a martyr, and worshipped for dying honorably for the cause. Instead of death decreasing Taliban morale and determination, it does just the opposite. It makes them want to fight even harder, and makes them that much more of a threat.

4. The psychological aspect of the warfare alone takes a huge toll on US soldiers.

Bombs, blood, and blurs. I'm glad to say I've never had to be in a situation where killing someone would be necessary. Nor have I been part of a war. So I don't know what its like to see corpses lining streets, to see beheaded children, or to have to shoot someone. I don't know what that would do to a person, but I imagine it would difficult to deal with. One of the biggest problems facing soldiers returning home from war is struggle re-adapting to normal life. War leaves imprints on your brain. It changes you, in some ways for the better, in some ways for the worse. So I might even argue that the hardest part of war is the psychological toll it takes on the soldiers fighting in it. Thank god that the draft no longer exists as it used to.

These are four big problems I see. To be honest, war confuses me more than most things. I have a difficult time even thinking about it, but I know its incredibly important that I know why we are at war, and that I appreciate that all of what I take so often for granted. That's all for now. Tune in next time for my commentary on Obama's plan for Afghanistan.

Drawing To A Close In Ashgabat

Unfortunately my trip of a lifetime had to end somewhere, and that somewhere was Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. I ended up with a few extra days there, as I was originally intending to also visit Afghanistan, but my reasons for not doing so are listed below. It was quite a ride, and thank you reading everything I've written and for enjoying all the photos I've posted. I only have one photo from Ashgabat, because all my film had been used up by then, but it is shown above. I took the photo of a screenshot of Turkmenbashi, Turkmenistan's deceased leader. I'll leave you with a piece I've written about him below. Enjoy, and thank you for reading about my Adventures in Central Asia!

Turkmenbashi

Turkmenbashi was the leader of Turkmenistan up until a few years ago, and then his dentist took over. If that sounds strange to someone in America, imagine how the Turkmen people felt under his “rule”, if you could even call it that. Turkmenbashi’s career as the leader of Turkmenistan was defined by his erratic behavior and totalitarian approach to leadership. As he lived in splendor and enjoyed the high life, his people suffered greatly. He is regarded by the global community as one of the most corrupt and unreasonable leaders in history. He renamed the days of the week to his liking, changed each month’s name to the name of someone in his family, and all the while watched as his people starved and struggled, only to claim that the situation was their fault. Upon his death in 2006, his dentist stepped in to rule the country. So far, his dentist has proved to be almost a crazy as he was. His legacy exists only in the faces of emaciated children, poor families, and his ridiculous projects. What is one of the more famous of these “projects” he commissioned as president? He ordered the construction of a resort, complete with a pool, air conditioning, a theater, and luxury suites. The intended clients? Horses. To sum things up, what would Turkmenbashi say if you told him he was involved in cruelty and corruption? “That’s for the birds, or rather, it’s for the horses.”

Afghanistan: Extreme Danger Zone

It is recommended by the US State Department that all American travel to or through Afghanistan cease entirely. The situation there is being called “critical” for a multitude of reasons. Terrorist attacks; kidnappings, bombings, and drug-related violence are only some of the issues that contribute to the unbalanced state of things in Afghanistan. It doesn’t help that foreigners are specifically being targeted by the terrorists, putting any non-Afghan in an immense amount of danger. In fact, things are so bad that even the US embassy in Afghanistan cannot and will not help you if something happens to you in the wrong area of Afghanistan. For these reasons, I have decided to cut Afghanistan from my itinerary, avoiding this dangerous situation entirely and hopefully emerging from my trip safe, happy, and best of all, alive.

Photos: Samarkand

Here are my photos from Samarkand, the beautiful and historic city nestled in Central Uzbekistan. The top photo shows the Islamic world's first paper mill, the second shows the ruins of the old Ulugh Beg Observatory, and the last shows Samarkand Square.

Samarkand: A City Of Historical Treasures

Samarkand was a city of many surprises. My main attractions to the city were the historical richness and well preserved ancient sites. I visited a paper mill and even an observatory, or rather, the ruins of one, and also saw Samarkand Square. See below for my description, and see my next post for photos.

Samarkand: The Gem Of The East

More than 25 centuries old, Samarkand is regarded as one of the most historic and beautiful cities in the entire world. With its grand architecture and myriad of historical landmarks, it’s no wonder that it is rapidly becoming a popular tourist destination. Samarkand was historically significant as the central point of the Silk Road, uniting China and the West. It is also known for being a central location for Islamic scholarly studies. The two coolest things about Samarkand are: 1) The Ulugh Beg Observatory 2) The Legend Of Papermaking.

An astronomer named Ulugh Beg built the Ulugh Beg Observatory in the 1420’s. It is still regarded by many as one of the finest observatories that has ever existed, even though religious radicals destroyed it in 1449 during a conflict in the region. It would be another 500 years before the ruins were uncovered by a Russian archaeologist. To his surprise, underneath all of the rubble, the tunnels that ran under the observatory had survived, and the location is now preserved for all to see.

Photos: Tashkent

Depicted above are the many photos I snapped in Tashkent, enjoy! The pictures show the traditional folk instruments of Uzbekistan, a delicious dish I tried called Plov, and the Tashkent Aqua Park!

Trekking In Tashkent

Leaving Bishkek, I again crossed the Tian Shans, but this time headed for a new destination. Tashkent, Uzbekistan. But Tashkent would not be my only stop in Uzbekistan. I would also be visiting the historical city of Samarkand, but that would come later on my journey. The biggest thing that stuck out to me about Tashkent was the incredible food they had there. I indulged on many many things, enjoying delicacies that I'd never even heard of in America. Again, also another country and city where the people were just stellar. They treated me like I'd been an Uzbek all my life. Below is the story of my travels in Tashkent, and also some research I did on the government and safety level there.

Uzbekistan: Terrorism Run Amok

According to the US State Department, Uzbekistan is currently a hot spot for radical activity and potential terrorist attacks. It is strongly recommended that travelers avoid visiting Uzbekistan for the time being. Numerous groups responsible for localized bombings in the past several years have made threats and are currently active inside Uzbekistan. If you must travel through the country, it is advised that you register with the US Embassy and stay alert. For my trip, I’ve decided to try and limit my stay in Uzbekistan as much as possible to keep safe. I plan to visit both Tashkent and Samarkand, but will make sure to stay up to date with current information and be extremely cautious as I travel through the country.

Being Uzbek Ain’t No Picnic

The word Uzbek means “independent”, a strange definition for a country of people plagued by civil unrest, dissatisfaction with the government, and corruption. But amidst the chaos and confusion, the Uzbek people have created a unique and identifiable culture that can only be described as independent from the mess around them. The predominant language in Uzbekistan is a Turkic language bearing similarity to the language of the Uyghurs, oddly enough. In terms of religion, it is extremely apparent that Islam reigns supreme in Uzbekistan. Many other religions exist in small pockets, but Islam is the definitely the most commonly practiced. It is noted that Uzbekistan has a very high literacy rate, but only about 76% of the Uzbek people are enrolled in school, so there is still room for progress. Folk and pop music are both very popular amongst Uzbeks, even though folk music has been banned from the Uzbek radio since the 1950’s. It has survived in small communities and gatherings, where it performed and danced to. As is apparent, Uzbek culture remains rich, even if the state of their country is very poor.

Taking In Tashkent

The Russian influence in Tashkent is extremely noticeable. The architecture is all very modern, reminiscent of the buildings you might see in a place like Moscow. But even if the Soviet influence is obvious, the city manages to maintain an atmosphere all its own. I would recommend purchasing an Uzbek guidebook if you want to purchase anything from the street vendors. It makes things much easier. It was one of my favorite places to visit on my trip, because the people were so hospitable and the city was so interesting.

Lodging: I quite enjoyed staying in the guesthouses of Almaty & Bishkek, but decided to stay in a slightly different but equally cheap place in Tashkent. Gulnara’s Bed & Breakfast was a great place next to a small pond in the outer part of downtown Tashkent. The rate was 12 US dollars per night, but it was well worth it for the service I received. The place was clean, the bed was comfortable, and the breakfast was delightful. It was placed just a few blocks from the Metro Station too, so that made traveling around town very convenient. If you are looking for a simple but comfortable set up for a low price, I highly recommend this little place.

Food: Tashkent without a doubt was home to the best food I had on my entire journey. The traditional lunch dish is a Samsa, which is similar to a South American empanada. I had an assortment of different types of Samsas for my lunch, for only 3 US Dollars. I tried one each of the beef, mutton, and onion varieties. They are finger food from an oven and are like little pockets of instant gratification. After spending my afternoon enjoying the Tashkent people and the sights around town, I headed out for dinner. I had been told by a friend in my hometown that during his travels across Asia he had tried a food called Plov, which is rice with wild spices, carrots, some type of meat, and cumin. At first I wasn’t so keen on trying it, as I’m not a huge fan of cumin, but I decided that for experience’s sake, I wanted to be able to say I’d tried the national dish of Uzbekistan. It was good, but as I expected I would have preferred it without cumin. Even if you have a very limited tolerance for new foods, I recommend that any traveler try whatever foods they can in a new country. The experience will not be forgotten, and it makes you feel like you have been a part of that much more of the culture in the country you are visiting.

Sightseeing: Instead of seeing a natural beauty like the mountains of the XUAR or the canyons of Kazakhstan, I decided to visit Tashkent’s very own Aqua Park. The Park was great, complete with a wave pool, water slides, and even a high dive. Admission was about 6 US Dollars, but was a very reasonable price for the amount of fun I had. I left my shoes in the locker room, but would recommend to anyone visiting to keep a pair of flip flops with them, because the stones get very hot in the summer. My feet were scorched. If you are hungry, the park has a restaurant and bar where you can grab a cool drink or a nice snack.

Souvenir: I was thrilled to find a small business called the Human House in the North part of town, where craftsman from remote and poor villages can sell their work. I had heard that Tashkent was famous for its ceramics, and entered the shop with the intention of finding a small handmade pot to put my souvenirs from the entire trip in. But I found something even better. For only 3 US Dollars, I found a beautiful little teapot, with a hand painted scene of an Uzbek garden painted on its side. It also felt great to know that my money was helping struggling people in this country which had been so kind to me. That teapot would remain symbolic of my whole journey, and remind me of the wonderful people I met along the way.

Photos: Bishkek

Snapshots of a city that changed how I think of hospitality. I mean really, the people of Bishkek were sensational. Above are some of the photos I gathered in Bishkek. Seen are a group of children I met outside of Bishkek, a statue of a soldier dedicated to the wars of ancient Kyrgyz history, and the Syr Darya River.

On To Bishkek

Kyrgyzstan proved to be one of the more interesting places I visited on my trip, beginning from the moment we passed through border patrol. The guards were very confrontational, and the whole process probably took about an hour and a half before we were let through. Luckily I was armed with my passport and a visa, so I had nothing to worry about. Bishkek as a city was one of the quieter places I stayed, but it had a large presence. The people were friendly and I learned oodles about the history of Kyrgyzstan and its culture from them. Below are some of the things they told me, along with a write up about the Syr Darya River and how it has contributed to the environmental crisis that is the Aral Sea.

Kyrgyzstan: The Early Years

In its ancient history, the Kyrgyz state existed peacefully and quietly. This calm existence helped them thrive for quite a while, but their neutrality would not last long. Around 840 AD, the Kyrgyz made a huge move by attacking the Uyghur Empire, a dominant empire rooted in Central Asia. They succeeded in defeating the Uyghurs, and conquered the entire region that was left behind. This area would remain under their control for the next 200 years. Then came the Mongols in 1200, who pushed the Kyrgyz towards the Altay and Sayan mountains, drastically shrinking their domain. Eventually, the Kyrgyz migrated south to avoid conflict, but were then conquered by Genghis Khan’s son just a few years after their move. The Kyrgyz were originally thought by the groups they encountered to be of Slavic descent, because of their peculiarly colored eyes and hair. The process of war and all that it entailed scattered many Kyrgyz throughout Central Asia, which explains why depending on where you travel, the native Kyrgyz may all speak slightly different languages. Kyrgyzstan endured a lot to reach its current state, and its history of conflict and compromise surely explains that.

It’s Great To Be A Kyrgyz

By definition, the Kyrgyz are a blend of people. Their name means “ a collection of forty tribes,” referring to the many nomadic groups that combine to represent the people of Kyrgyzstan. The word Kyrgyz can also mean imperishable, inextinguishable, or undying, which is why the name has risen to such popular appreciation. Even though times are tough in their country, they remain positive, and their culture flourishes. The most popular forms of Kyrgyz housing are yurts, and are often constructed out of leftover and scrap material. Many families actually live with people who are not related to them, as many different ethnicities trickle in Kyrgyzstan, and due to the impoverished state of the country, shelter for one group of people is often shelter for another. These diverse ethnical groups speak similar languages, but with small differentiations in pronunciation and tonality. The dominant religion in Kyrgyzstan is Muslim, and a handful of other practicing religious groups are scattered throughout the country. Folk music is popular in Kyrgyzstan, especially instrumental folk music. The komuz is the national instrument of Kyrgyzstan. It is a plucked string instrument. The kyl kiak, however, is also an important symbol of Kyrgyz identity. It is a string instrument, and is associated with horses and the vital role they play in Kyrgyz culture. Kyrgyz clothing is very colorful and is often inspired by nature. Most clothing items are gender specific, but regardless of gender, all clothes are made warm to support people who may need to travel in the mountains for their jobs. Rising above the desperate situation, the Kyrgyz remain optimistic, and while they have many hurdles to overcome, they can surely do it.

Syr Darya River

The Syr Darya River is a river in Central Asia, with portions of itself snaking through Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan. The river rises in two headstreams into the Tian Shan Mountains, in Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, which are called the Naryn and Kara Darya Rivers. Both of these rivers then drain into what is remaining of the Aral Sea. The Syr Darya River remains crucial to all of the countries it passes through, as it serves as irrigation to the many cotton growing regions along its route. The canals that were built to support the river and agriculture were massively expanded upon by the Soviets, and now have contributed to the drying up of the Aral Sea. With millions of people now living along the river, the situation is a tough one to resolve. No matter how bad for the Aral Sea, it is apparent that the river is important to the region, and no major changes will be made to it soon.

Photos: Almaty

Above are some photos of the many delights of Almaty. Pictured are: The skyline of Almaty at night, which is symbolic of the crazy nightlife there, a photo of an oil pump in one of the deserts of Kazakhstan, Charyn Canyon, Shashlik kabobs, and two felt dolls made by a Kazakh family. Enjoy!

Arrival In Almaty

After a 24 hour bus ride over the Tian Shan Mountains, I arrived in Almaty, Kazakhstan. For a Central Asian country, I must admit I was surprised by the colorful people, and the overall hustle and bustle feeling of the city. It seemed like it would be much more at home in Europe rather than Central Asia. I knew hardly anything about Kazakhstan before my trip, other than that it was home to Borat. But my trip taught me so much more. Below are several things I learned about the country, and a detailed description of my time in the city itself.

Oil, Oil, Oil!

In recent years, Kazakhstan has risen to international fame for the enormous amount of untapped resources it houses. Diamonds, uranium, manganese, and many others are all plentiful under the ground in Kazakhstan. But a different resource is the one making many countries want desperately to be best friends with Kazakhstan. It is estimated that Kazakhstan has around 30 billion barrels of untapped crude oil, which makes Kazakhstan a huge target for countries like the United States who are interested in purchasing large amounts of oil. So why is Kazakhstan still one of the poorest countries in all of Asia? Firstly, there are only three oil refineries in all of Kazakhstan, which greatly limits their ability to actually refine the oil. They send lots of oil to Russia, where it is then refined and either exported or sent back to Kazakhstan. Also, the main oil fields are all in somewhat difficult to access locations, in the far corners of the country. The one oil field that is in the central part of the country remains untapped. So for now the people of Kazakhstan remain poor, waiting for the day that their oil will make them rich.

Charyn Canyon

The Charyn Canyon is an 80 km canyon in Kazakhstan set on the Charyn River, about 200 km east of Almaty, on the Chinese border. It is the second largest canyon in the world, and is often called “the mini Grand Canyon.” The canyon is also called the Valley of Castles, because many of the rock formations there look like the turrets of a fairy tale style castle. Many fossils have been found in the canyon, some dating back to 300 million years ago.

Back To Basics in Almaty

Almaty is city of many surprises. Upon arrival here, I found that what may look like a quiet town is really a bustling center for all things Central Asia. My first orders of business upon arrival to Almaty: find a place to stay, get some grub, and check out the sights!

Housing: For lodging, I stayed at a lovely little guest house in downtown Almaty called So Young’s Happiness Guest House. It was run by a kind but cantankerous woman with a funny name. I chose the guest house because of its central location in the city, and its proximity to many great sights around the town. The location was recommended to me by a travel agent in America because of its safe location. There was great service and the works were some of the nicest people I’ve ever met. Many services are offered, like laundry, games, movies, and homemade food. And at only 12 US dollars per night, who wouldn’t want to stay here? It was fantastic, and I recommend So Young’s to anyone traveling in the area.

Food: When I arrived in Almaty, it was about 11:00 in the morning, and I had already eaten a quick breakfast that morning on the bus ride from Urumqi. By 11:00, I was about ready for lunch. The little place I stopped by was called Gakku, and specialized in serving traditional Kazakh food. I decided to try “beshparmak”, which is a stew made from herbs containing pieces of cooked lamb. It was delicious, and again, enjoying the cheap prices of Central Asia, I paid only 5 US dollars for it. Later that day, after touring the city, I was about ready for dinner. I found Soho, a restaurant that again served Kazakh food but also had a free live band play every night! They even played several covers of English music, which was a real treat. My dinner was a dish called “Shashlik”, recommended to me by the locals, and as I later found out, popular throughout this part of Asia. Shashlik is a kebab made from chicken or lamb, and it is grilled over a charcoal grill. It was even better than my lunch that day, and again, only cost me about 4 US dollars. Central Asian cuisine is definitely for me!

Sightseeing: I was torn between seeing many things in Almaty, but eventually decided to hop on the bus for a three hour car ride out to second largest canyon in the world, Caryn Canyon. All I can say is that it was beautiful, and certainly one of the most spectacular places I’ve ever visited. I was especially surprised by the beautiful rust color of the rock there. See my description above of the history of the canyon.

Souvenir: On the morning I was scheduled to leave for Bishkek, I resolved to find the perfect souvenir to bring home from Almaty. As I was browsing the street stalls in the downtown market, I realized that many of the felt creations in the market were unique and would be a perfect gift for someone like my sister. So, with that in mind, I purchased a small felt doll for her. It cost me about 3 US Dollars, and I asked the lady working the stall where I found it what it was made from. As it turns out, the many Kazakh felt dolls are made from boiled lamb’s wool, and then dyed with natural dye created from plants in the area. Content that my sister would love the doll; I gathered my belongings and headed onwards to Bishkek.

Photos: Urumqi

Here are some photos of the sights and events around and pertaining to Urumqi. Shown above are the cityscape, the riots that were a large part of the unrest in Urumqi in 2008, and the Tian Shan mountain range.

Hello Urumqi

My Central Asian journey began in Urumqi, one of the principal cities in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR). The city has not been the safest in recent years, as the people living there have had conflicts with the government. But all that aside, the few days I spent there were incredible. The city itself is spectacular, and there was plenty of time for me to do some research on the region's ancient history. While researching the beginnings of the XUAR, I also discovered many things about the tension between the government and people of the XUAR. Below are two research summaries that I intend to hand in with a paper to my college history professor upon my return to the USA.

The XUAR: Conquests & Turmoil

China has always been famous for its lengthy history of the rise and fall of dynasties, and the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region has stayed true to the legacy of conflict. Since its beginnings in 206 BC, it has struggled under fierce rulers and fought for eventual independence. The region’s first iron fisted rulers were the Han Dynasty, who held the XUAR as a Chinese protectorate until the Han Dynasty was challenged by northern neighbors. The Han Dynasty overcame its northern enemies and continued to hold the XUAR as a commodity. Then, after the fall of the Han Dynasty, warring ethnic groups continually tried to take control the region, with its ownership under question for much of the next few hundred years. Just when there appeared to be room for the XUAR to escape control, the Tang Dynasty took over. They maintained control for the next hundred years, until an empire unlike anything the XUAR had seen arrived, The Uyghur Empire. They beat out the Tang Dynasty for control of the region, and would reign supreme in the area for the next 100 years, until a small tribe arrived that threatened to destroy everything. The Kyrgyz tribe arrived in 840 with great ambition and a fiery spirit. In fact, they were so driven that they, in war, defeated the Uyghur Empire, scattering the Uyghur people all throughout Central Asia.

Gradually, the Uyghur people managed to group back together and stay that way until the 1200’s. Then, they sensibly offered allegiance to Genghis Khan and the Mongol Army, riding the coattails of his success for a long time. This cycle of conquests and turmoil continued through the 1800’s, until 1912, when the XUAR became part of the Republic of China, where they remain today. The reason this lengthy history is so significant is because of the lingering cultural tensions still rotted in the region today. A melting pot of peoples, the area has suffered greatly due to violence and uprisings in the past few years, all of which are reminiscent of the conflict of the XUAR’s early years.

Trouble in the XUAR

The XUAR is known for housing a melting pot of cultures and people, but what does a pot do when it gets too hot? It boils over, and that is exactly what happened during the 2008 Uyghur unrest. The region has had a long history of conflict, dating all the way back to its origins. The Uyghurs, one of the foundation ethnic groups, in the XUAR, has been trying since the 1700’s to obtain self determination, which is basically the ability for a group of people to determine their own way of life. The Chinese government has made many attempts to curb the rise of independence groups like the Uyghurs. Following the death of a famous businessman who was in police custody in 2008, several pro-independence groups, some of which were predominantly Uyghur, were sparked to protest the government in Xinjiang. Simultaneously, a Uyghur woman detonated a bomb in a packed bus, escaping as the only one alive. The authorities started blaming random ethnic groups for starting the protests and also for bombing the bus, which lead to even greater chaos. This sparked a chain of events that included bombings, police brutality, and shooting. The situation continued to escalate with more and more deaths until things finally calmed down in late August.

After several days on enjoying Urumqi and all that the city has to offer, it was time for me to go. I hopped on a bus and headed for Almaty. But before I got there I had to cross the Tian Shan Mountains. They tower over the rest of Central Asia, and needless to say, were quite impressive. Below is my research piece on this famous Mountain Range.

The Tian Shan Mountains

The name Tian Shan in Chinese means celestial mountains, suggesting perhaps that the Tian Shan Mountains reach the heavens, which wouldn’t be too much of an exaggeration. With its highest point towering above the surrounding peaks at 24,406 feet, the Tian Shan Mountains are some of the highest mountains in all of Asia. Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and the XUAR are all in proximity to these mountains, located to the northwest of the Taklimakan Desert. As I mentioned earlier, the highest peak is Victory Peak, named because of the incredible feat it would be to climb it. The largest passage through the mountains is via Torugart Pass, connecting Kyrgyzstan to the XUAR. Serving as a shield from the outside world, the Tian Shan Mountain range arches around Central Asia, protecting and enclosing the countries tucked inside.

For pictures of Urumqi, the Urumqi riots that were a large part of the unrest there, and to see the Tian Shan Mountains, see my next post.

The Adventure Is Over...

Well at least for me. But for you, the adventure is just beginning! I recently returned from a trek across Central Asia, and the posts to follow this will detail the highs and lows of my experiences in several strange and new countries. Enjoy my writings, photos, and descriptions of the beautiful but harsh place that is Central Asia!

Additional Note: Here is the route I took based on the order of the cities I visited:

1. Urumqi (The Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region)
2. Almaty (Kazakhstan)
3. Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan)
4. Tashkent (Uzbekistan)
5. Samarkand (Uzbekistan)
6. Ashgabat (Turkmenistan)

Faith, Spirituality, and Where I Fall Amongst Them

Before I begin, just to clarify: I decided to break up part three and simply place it with parts 1 & 2 as I dictate my results. This will help me think more clearly.

Alright. Time to find out what I believe. Here we go:

Part 1: Level Of Spirituality

I received a 57 on the quiz, placing me in the Spiritual Straddler category (50-59). The descriptor says: "One foot in traditional religion, the other in free form spirituality."

I have mixed emotions about this. I think this is a fair way to describe me, seeing as how I am not committed to a particular religion or spirituality. To be honest, I did expect to see a result like this. As to whether I agree with the findings or not, here is what I think after looking at the next step up and the step below the one I got. The next step up implies that I have a particular religion that I follow, which is incorrect. So I could go no higher than the category I'm in now. The category below could apply to me, as it says I am spiritual, but sometimes turned off by organized religion, which is true.

I did have difficulty responding to some of the questions, because, to be honest, I don't know exactly what I believe. I know what I value, and what moral beliefs I have, but I have difficulty paralleling those to religion.

Part 2: What is my faith?

The assignment only asked for us to post our top five results for this quiz, but I am posting my top ten. Here they are:


1.
Unitarian Universalism (100%)
2.
Liberal Quakers (94%)
3.
Neo-Pagan (89%)
4.
Reform Judaism (84%)
5.
Mainline to Liberal Christian Protestants (78%)
6.
Mahayana Buddhism (78%)
7.
New Age (78%)
8.
Secular Humanism (75%)
9.
Taoism (68%)
10.
Theravada Buddhism (65%)

Highest Ranking Eastern Religion: I was not sure if Unitarian Universalist or Reform Judaist counted, so I chose Mahayana Buddhism as my top Eastern Religion.

Here is what it gave me as my beliefs:


•Belief in Deity

Mahayana Buddhism (like Theravada Buddhism) posits no Creator or ruler God. However, deity belief is present in the Mahayana doctrine of The Three Bodies (forms) of Buddha: (1) Body of Essence--the indescribable, impersonal Absolute Reality, or Ultimate Truth that is Nirvana (Infinite Bliss); (2) Body of Bliss or Enjoyment--Buddha as divine, deity, formless, celestial spirit with saving power of grace, omnipotence, omniscience; and (3) Body of Transformation or Emanation--an illusion or emanation in human form provided by the divine Buddha to guide humans to Enlightenment. Any person can potentially achieve Buddhahood, transcending personality and becoming one with the impersonal Ultimate Reality, which is Infinite Bliss (Nirvana). There are countless Buddhas presiding over countless universes. Bodhisattvas--humans and celestial spirits who sacrifice their imminent liberation (Buddhahood) to help all others to become liberated--are revered or worshipped as gods or saints by some.


•Incarnations

The historic Buddha, the person Siddhartha Gautama, is considered by many as an emanation or illusion of the highest power (which is also called Buddha). Many believe there have been countless Buddhas on earth.


•Origin of Universe and Life

No Creator God. All matter is illusion or manifestation of the Ultimate Reality. Generally, Mahayana Buddhist beliefs don't find modern scientific discoveries contradictory to Buddhist thought.


•After Death

There is no transmigration of individual souls, but through the law of karma, one's wholesome or unwholesome intentions become imprinted in the mind. Negative mental states persist through continual rebirth until one's intentions become wholesome. Once fully enlightened, one is liberated from rebirths, reaching a state of absolute selflessness resulting in ultimate bliss called Nirvana--the "Deathless State." One becomes Buddha (or one with Buddha). Some Buddhists, especially modern Western, don't emphasize or believe in literal rebirth.


•Why Evil?

People have free will to commit wrongs. Evil results as cravings, attachments, and ignorance accumulate through perpetual rebirths, thus perpetuating greed, hatred, and violence.


• Salvation:

The goal is enlightenment, leading to Nirvana--liberation from cycles of rebirth and suffering--which is life. All are already endowed with Buddha-nature but need to come to realize fully that only the Ultimate Reality (the great "void" or "emptiness") is real (or nonconditional) and permanent. The Four Noble Truths and Eightfold Path show the way, along with worship of the essential Buddha. One must work to extinguish self: All worldly cravings, desires, and attachments, through loving-kindness, compassion, charity, moral conduct, wisdom, and meditation. Renouncing worldly possessions and goals is not necessary for the laity, if balanced. Buddha taught the middle path, moderation. Human and spirit world Bodhisattvas are sought for help in gaining enlightenment. Pure Land Mahayana Buddhists aim to find a place of eternal Nirvana in a paradisiacal Pure Land, attainable by calling out the name of the Buddha ruler of the Pure Land.


• Undeserved Suffering:

Life is suffering. Suffering results from this and past life greed, hatred, and ignorance, which, unless mitigated, returns as suffering (karma). Intense suffering may be viewed as the release of karma, hastening one's liberation. Suffering is illusion or ignorance of one's true nature as Buddha.


• Contemporary Issues:

Abortion is considered murder, and all violent acts cause horrific karmic consequence. Homosexuality in itself is not specifically condemned by scripture, but opinions vary, especially among various Buddhist cultures--e.g., American Buddhists are generally very accepting, while Asian Buddhists are generally strongly opposed to homosexuality. It is believed that divorce wouldn't occur if one follows Buddhist precepts, but a couple is not condemned if they separate due to vast personal differences. Gender roles are generally traditional (e.g. women are child caretakers and men are providers), but are growing less rigid as society inflicts more and more contemporary demands (e.g. women working in increasing numbers).

I again have mixed emotions regarding my results. This time there are quite a few more religions involved, and I was surprised to find that I had a 100% match. Upon further investigation, I realized this is because Unitarian Universalism is somewhat vague, providing the fact that they are very accepting, but not much else.

My highest ranking Eastern Religion was also a surprise, because for some reason I was expecting to get Hinduism before Buddhism. I'm not complaining though, as I've always been really intrigued by Buddhism. My particular sect is called Mahayan Buddhism, and its beliefs are listed above. After reading through them, I felt as if parts suited me and parts did not. I identify with the belief that there is no creator god, as creation puzzles me always. I like the idea that "god" is not necessarily a particular being, but an underlying spiritual body/essence/energy. That said, since I do not know what my beliefs are at this point in my life, I don't necessarily wholeheartedly agree with these ideas. On the other hand, there are definitely things I do not agree with. I do not believe that life is suffering, or that we have past lives. Even more than that, I strongly disagree with their stances on contemporary issues. It seems to me like they try to appear as if they are accepting, but I do not think this is the case.

And in that one fact lies my largest problem with religion. Many religions pimp the "We accept everyone for who they are and what they believe" speech, but then they all have a long list that accompanies that speech. That long list is: God accepts you for what you are, unless you are this, this, this, or this. I have a major problem with that. Religion is supposed to be untainted by man, and simply taken from the divine texts, stories, etc. But the fact that religion is sometimes SO discriminatory makes me think perhaps we are inserting more of our own personal issues into it than is necessary or fair.

Sorry for that little rant. Back to my thoughts on my results. Overall, I don't think that Mahayan Buddhism is the best fit for me. But looking through my top ten list, I found a few religions I do quite like. Number 9, for example. Taoism. As odd as it may seem, and as out there as it may be, I like what it stands for, and the basic idea of balance it presents. I am super excited to continue learning about Eastern philosophy and religions, along with the history that shaped them. Or did religions help shape history? I guess I'll find out!


Part 4: Researching Mahayana Buddhism

Mahayana Buddhism appears to me to have originated from Guatama Buddha, although many scholars believe it originated in India. It is one of three routes to enlightenment under a particular bracket of Buddhism known as Vajrayana Buddhism. It is mainly practiced today in Eastern Asia.

In general, I found that the beliefs of Mahayana Buddhism are broken into four main parts. Universalism, Bodhicitta (or realization), Compassion, and Transcendental Imminence. Now I'll do my best to give a basic explanation each of these areas.

Universalism: Mahayana Buddhists believe enlightenment is reached at two levels. First, they acheive basic enlightenment, and then at death, something called Mahaparinirvana. As far as I can tell, this simply means "Final Nirvana", and can only be reached when you are at death's door. Some find this "Final Nirvana" as they are dying, others in the moment of death, and others are forced to search for it even in death. The reason Mahayana Buddhism is considered a form of universalism is because under it, everyone will reach total enlightenment. This is pre-determined.

Bodhicitta/Realization: Put simply, this is the idea that acheiving enlightenment for one's self is too small a goal. Once you have reached it yourself, you should help others to do so as well, so eventually everyone shall be in enlightenment together.

Compassion: A large part of Bodhicitta, compassion is the key idea that ones' merit can be transferred to others. I think this means that your accomplishments and the lessons you have learned from them can be given as gifts to others. Whether this is through teaching or cooperating, compassion is spread, and it is a linking force between those who believe in Mahayand Buddhism.

Transcendental Imminence: The longest words, but the simplest concept. It simply means that the immortal Buddha is present in all human beings. Essentially, he is a part of us all as we are a part of him.


Part 4.5: My Thoughts

My initial response to this religion was that I did not feel it was for me, and my opinion stands. However, after some more in depth research, I do see it is a very complex and geniusly created religion. I respect the beliefs associated with Mahayan Buddhism and particularly like the idea of Transcendental Imminence (see above). I do not think I could practice this religion for my entire life, but I do think I would like to experience it sometime. Perhaps when I am older and I visit Asia I will seek out someone to take me somewhere where I can learn and practice more about this religion. That way I can at least say I have tried it out, and seen what it has to offer. In terms of my worldview, I think this religion shares some unfortunate realizations. For example, the idea that evil arises due to individual greed, spite, and other dark emotions is one I also believe. It is unfortunate, and I do wish it was untrue, as I like to look at things through a positive lens, but it is important to take everything with a grain of salt. In the words of Buddha himself, the jug fills drop by drop. I had never heard of Mahayana Buddhism before, but I am glad that I have now. Each bit of information I gain about other's beliefs and cultures makes me more aware, and only that much more of a world citizen.

Cultural Bias & My Apparent Lack Of Geographical Knowledge

Geography Test Results: 82.5%

To be entirely honest, I am happy with this for now. Considering my embarassing lack of geographical knowledge, I feel as if I did as well as I could. Sri Lanka was the kicker. I sware I clicked on it in error trying to find another country, and when it came up as a question later, I was clueless. I knew it was an island, but then I realized I'd already used every possible island (or so I thought.) I would like to see my score improve to 100% asap. I think this is completely reasonable, considering this area is my topic of study for the next year. I also hope that as I learn more about different places, I can associate customs and religions with the picture on the map, instead of just names. That's enough of a rant on this for tonight, and now I'll move on to... CULTURAL BIAS & THE IMPORTANCE OF LEARNING HISTORY! Woohoo!

Why is it important (or not important) to study Asian history or any history for that matter?

First of all, I'd like to hear the argument for why it is not important. I mean seriously, history is unmeasurably valuable to us in so many ways. In fact, I can think of few things more important. We no longer live in a world where messages are sent by ship and everyone hunts for their own food. We are interdepenent, and inextricably tied to each other. It is crucial that we pay attention to history, because history often repeats itself, and we can learn so much from the past. We can learn from the mistakes made by people who existed hundreds of years ago, and learn why things are the way they are today. Even though it happened long ago, that does not mean it is not still affecting us today. Another reason it is important to study history is for the sake of appreciation. How can we appreciate the many cultures, religions, and marvelous places our world has to offer if we know nothing about how they were created? It is important to know why wars were started, and how they were resolved. Or when a country became sovereign, and what they had to do to receive that recognition. For the two reasons outlines above, I believe it is very important to be educated on the history of our world, and the same thing applies to Asia in particular. America's relationship with various Asian countries can only be determined by looking at the past. Why did Japan attack Pearl Harbor? How did China come to be the one to hold our debt? Crack open a history book and you might find your answer.

What must be considered when studying different countries or cultures?

I think the most important thing to consider is that all countries and cultures are different. What we find strange, disgusting, or politically incorrect in other cultures may be a valued part of the daily routine. It is always important to learn to respect and accept idealogies and practices that differ from your own. There may be a more logical explanation behind the things that people in other cultures do than I think, and I must have an open mind. Another thing to be considered is that while these people and cultures may seem very foreign and strange to us, they are probably more like us than we think. For example, we may speak different languages, but everyone shares the experience of music. Art has no language, no ideal living conditions. It is simply one more thing that connects us to the outside world, one more thing we share. So respect other cultures and their practices, because it is simply the right thing to do.

Those are my thoughts on the questions we were assigned, and I believe I did what was asked of me for the assignment. I'm still getting used to the Upper School way of life, so bear with me. :)

Live Bravely,
Sam